Spantik (7027m) Expedition 2020/2021
Spantik or Golden Peak is a mountain in Spantik-Sosbun Mountains subrange of Karakoram in Nagar Valley, Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. Its northwest face features an exceptionally hard climbing route known as the “Golden Pillar”.
Spantik Climbing Expedition
Spantik Peak face is climbed via two different routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall. The international team spent five days following Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler’s English route between 5th and 11th August 1987.
In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather headed to Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area. The peak was however climbed from south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from southeast ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.